Letters from the Lighthouse: Travel Edition: Firenze Finale

I had to lave today from Florence to move on to Venice, but my train didn't leave until later this afternoon. Check out time was 9:30 am from the monastery, so I checked out, called a taxi to take me to the train station (10 euro) and stored my big suitcase and my backpack at the storage facility (halfway down platform 16) and took off to squeeze in at least one more adventure - the Medici Chapels.

I had heard so much about the Medici family, especially here in Florence, so I thought I'd go see what they were all about.

You can read so much about the Medici's - the family, the descendants, the intrigue, the plots, the marriages, the ascent and descent . . . lots to read. But this is what I remember from visiting the Medici Chapels and from some additional research. The are an intriguing family.

The House of Medici was an Italian banking family, political dynasty, and later royal house that first began to gather prominence under Cosimo de' Medici in the Republic of Florence during the first half of the 15th century. The family originated in the Mugello region of the Tuscan countryside, gradually rising until they were able to fund the Medici Bank. The bank was the largest in Europe during the 15th century, seeing the Medici gain political power in Florence — though officially they remained citizens rather than monarchs.

The Medici produced three Popes of the Catholic Church - Pope Leo X, Pope Clement VII, and Pope Leo XI; two regent queens of France - Catherine de' Medici and Marie de' Medici; and, in 1531, the family became hereditary Dukes of Florence.

The Medici Bank was one of the most prosperous and most respected institutions in Europe. There are some estimates that the Medici family were the wealthiest family in Europe for a time. From this base, they acquired political power initially in Florence and later in wider Italy and Europe. A notable contribution to the profession of accounting was the improvement of the general ledger system through the development of the double-entry bookkeeping system for tracking credits and debits. The Medici family were among the earliest businesses to use the system. We take it for granted, but somebody had to come up with the idea!

Lorenzo de' Medici (1449–1492), called "the Magnificent", was more capable of leading and ruling a city; however, he neglected the family banking business, leading to its ultimate ruin. To ensure the continuance of his family's success, Lorenzo planned his children's future careers for them.

The biggest accomplishments of the Medici were in the sponsorship of art and architecture, mainly early and High Renaissance art and architecture. The Medici were responsible for the majority of Florentine art during their reign. Their money was significant because during this period, artists generally only made their works when they received commissions in advance. Giovanni di Bicci de' Medici, the first patron of the arts in the family, aided Masaccio and commissioned Bruneslleschi for the reconstruction of the Basilica of San Lorenzo. Cosimo the Elder's notable artistic associates were Donatello and Fra Angelico. The most significant addition to the list over the years was Michelangelo Buonarroti, who produced work for a number of Medici, beginning with Lorenzo the Magnificent, who was said to be extremely fond of the young Michelangelo, inviting him to study the family collection of antique sculpture. Lorenzo also served as patron to Leonardo da Vinci for seven years. Indeed, Lorenzo was an artist in his own right, and author of poetry and song; his support of the arts and letters is seen as a high point in Medici patronage.

Cosimo de’Medici died in 1464. He is succeeded for five years by his son Piero, on whose death the leading citizens of Florence invite Piero's son Lorenzo, aged only twenty, to occupy the same informal position as ruler of the city. Lorenzo accepts what seems now almost a hereditary role. But he lacks his grandfather's skill either in running the family bank or in using his wealth to neutralize opposing factions. The result, in 1478, is a conspiracy which nearly ends his rule.

A plot against Lorenzo and his younger brother Guiliano is hatched by a dangerous coalition. The conspirators include the Pazzi family (rival bankers), the archbishop of Pisa (a city restless under Florentine control) and a nephew of the pope, Sixtus IV. The pope has recently transferred the papal account from the Medici bank to the Pazzi and would prefer a more docile ruler in Florence.

The plot involves sacrilege and murder. The Medici brothers are to be struck down as they kneel before the altar during high mass in the cathedral in Florence. The signal for the assassination is to be the raising of the host. Giuliano is killed by one of the Pazzi clan, but Lorenzo escapes with a wound after fighting his way out of the cathedral. Florence remains loyal to the Medici. The conspirators are rounded up. By nightfall three of the Pazzi, together with the archbishop of Pisa in his ecclesiastical attire, are hanging from windows of Florence's government building.

There is a whole lot more to know about this dynasty, but Florence eventually ran out of Medicis. The last two - the male preferred males; the female didn't bear any children. The end. I couldn't keep them all straight if I tried. This is the beginning . . .it took me four pictures to get the whole family tree.

Anna Maria Luisa De' Medici

Cosimo VI

All of the tombs were supposed to have sculptures of the person in the tomb, but only two did,
and the chapel was under restoration construction. I wonder how the de' Medici's would feel about it!

It was a very dark chapel, but the decor was fabulous. Lots of rich dark colors - blue, red, green.

Colors on the walls . . .

. . . the dome . . .

. . . walls (lapis lazuli made that gorgeous blue) . . .

. . . and the floors.

Thought these were just gold and silver ornamentation for decor in a palace, but they are more than that.
These are actually containers that hold relics of the Saints. This is a small portion of the Medici family collection.
Don't ask me where they got Saint bones, teeth and hair. These are pretty decor, but creepy.

This is quite large but the container is the size of a small bouncy ball with a "relic" in it.

Tomb of Lorenzo, sculpted by Michelangelo. Dawn is on the left; Dusk is on the right.
Lorenzo is represented, pensively thinking, is in the middle.

Tomb of Giuliano, sculpted by Michelangelo. Day is represented on the left; Night is on the right.
Giuliano is represented by the sculpture in the middle.

Autographed work by Michelangelo, Madonna and Child sits in between sculptures of Lorenzo the Magnificent
and Giuliano, above their mortal remains.

Non-traditional, cross-bearing "sphere" designed by Michelangelo for the Medici family.

After visiting the incredible Medici Chapels and still having some time before my train was departing, I decided to pop into the Church of Santa Maria Novella. My last tour guide seemed to be quite fond of this church so I thought “what the heck.” Like I posted on Facebook, just when I thought I had seen everything to see that there is to see when it came to churches, I was again amazed at the beauty of this particular one.

Chronologically, it is the first great basilica in Florence, and is the city’s principle Dominican church. Without a tour guide, I had no idea about the art work, such as who painted what or who sculpted what, or who was buried here. I had to get some information online to fill in the gaps.

Stained glass window designed by Lippi (remember his story with the nun?)

The Birth of Mary

The Wedding of Mary and Joseph

Wooden choir by Giorgio Vasari

The Trinity - Massacio
(I love the pink! It's the only pink I saw in paintings.)

Jesus at the Well with the Samaritan Woman - Allori

Resurrection of Lazarus - Tito

Yes, I know . . . names / people you have never heard of. We usually hear Michelangelo and da Vinci, but what about all the rest of the Renaissance artists? There were many and they contributed such beauty to the city and the churches. I didn’t know these names either until Amy came home from her European religious history study abroad course, and then getting here and learning even more.

c. 1475 - a nativity scene by Sondro Botticelli

Crucifix - Giotto 1288-1299 AD

I never did quite understand what these frescoes were all about, but the detail was
unbelievable and they were on all the walls and ceiling of this chapel.